Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Home, home at last..... RW

It was the trip of a lifetime!
Gary did an excellent job of covering the highlights in his last blog update. I wanted to add a personal thank you to Gary, Mike and Pearse. Without Gary's advance planning of the road trip we all would have been lost. It became quite obvious he spent countless hours setting up way points, highway choices and riding times. We used the hard copy Mike carried so much it was almost in shreds by the end of the trip. Mike (Rocket Man) did a lot of the front running for the pack with Pearse in second with the fuzz buster when needed. When in doubt, Mike picked up the pace in almost all situations. Pearse (Zen Master) set the tone of the trip by keeping us all focused on what was important.....enjoyment and harmony. I personally learned a lot about BMW riding and appreciated Gary's, Mike's and Pearse's guidance. I believe my riding skills have improved and consequently a safer rider.
I have now checked off one of my major bucket list items. Thanks to all for the kind thoughts, words, and encouragement that enabled us to make this trip of a life time and all arrive home safe and sound. Take care.
PS: Hey Gary....what's next?

Monday, July 26, 2010

July 26 - gw

Well, I was the last to make it home, but arrived mid afternoon today. Total miles 11,784 over the past 38 days. We had a wonderful experience; got to see alot of sights, wildlife almost each day, good food and many miles of riding. What a trip!

Key take aways from the trip:
-Awsome places to see: Ferry across Lake Michigan, Black Hills, Glacier Nat'l Park, Banff, Lake Louise, Icefields parkway, Watson Lake Sign Village, Coldfoot, Atigun Pass, Prudhoe Bay, Talkeetna, Hwy 99 heading into Whistler, Vancouver, Columbia Gorge, Redmond, Moab, Arches Park, Durango.
-Riding Buddy - Pair up, don't ride alone. At times we did ride alone, not smart, no really stupid; especially on the trip up to Prudhoe Bay.
-Spot - we should all consider purchasing a Spot device for those extended rides or even short ones around home. Good safety device in case you get in trouble.
-Pack based on the climate(s) but pack light - you don't need as much as you think. Use layers
-Blog - glad we did it. Many folks will want to follow progress - we had 30 or so. Also good mechanism to update the family, especially when phone service is not available. Interestingly, we often had wifi where we did not have telephone support.

Many thanks to our families for supporting the trip. It sure makes the trip more enjoyable.

While I am glad we made the trip and had the experience, I must say I would not do this trip again. For me, too long away from home, friends, etc. - even though my wife met us and enjoyed a couple weeks with us on the road.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

25 Jul 2010 Peru, Il. RW

Just a quick note to say we are back on the road again after only a day of down time for repairs at Gina's BMW shop in Iowa City, Iowa. Can't say enough good things about the service we received from Gina's. They expedited parts from California by Fed-ex for next morning delivery and had both Gary's and my bikes repaired and on the road within a few hours. Fantastic effort by their entire team.
We are currently in Peru, Il, and Gary will split off to see his friend Jon in Culver, In while I continue on my way home to Michigan. By Monday evening the entire team should be back home after a great adventure.
Current mileage is 11388.

Friday, July 23, 2010

July 23 - gw

Well, today was full of surprises. Some good, some not so good.

Temps: 70's going into the high 80's. Very muggy day, lots of clouds.

We left Lincoln, NE this morning around 7:30 or so heading for Lasalle, IL. It seemed like all day we were chasing rain. We rode on damp or wet Interstate all the way to Iowa City. Luckily we only had to ride in a slight rain for maybe 5 minutes. We sure thought we were going to see heavy rain all morning, but, again, we were very fortunate.

Now for the bad news... As we neared Iowa City, all of a sudden, Rusty noticed a heavy vibration coming out of his bike. We pulled over and discovered that his final drive bearing had deteriorated to the point the back wheel/brake rotor was rubbing on his brake caliper. Bad JuJu! Then we decided to check my final drive and found mine was loose also. We were lucky in that we were only 6 miles from Gina's BMW in Iowa City. They immediately dispatched a truck and trailer to come pick up Rusty's bike. We got into the dealership and they put our bikes in front of others, checked bikes out and confirmed final drives were bad on both our machines. They went on line and found there were only two of the drives in the U.S. and they were in Stockton, CA. They arranged, on a Friday afternoon, to get them air-shipped into their dealership for delivery tomorrow morning. So, with luck we should be back on the road tomorrow. Keep your fingers crossed. (The dealership said our drives were the first they had to replace in over 4 years. Just our luck.)

Mike said he couldn't wait on us and took off and headed for Michigan. What a guy!!!! Just kidding; when it was determined that Rusty and I had to wait on parts and he couldn't help, he did move on and it was the right decision. He called to check on us after riding a heavy down pour of rain all the way into mid Illinois. He should be home tomorrow. Hopefully with better weather for him.

Wish us luck on the parts getting here and enough time tomorrow to get them fixed. If not, we will be stuck here until Tuesday before we can get moving again.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

July 22 - gw

Well, today we put the gals in the shuttle from the hotel to the airport in Denver. They flew home arriving safely in the mid afternoon. That is a good thing.

Temps: 60's to high 90's. Clear to partly cloudy skies.

Mike, Rusty and I began the long grind home; riding today via Interstate from Denver to Lincoln, Nebraska. In general, nothing to look at except alot of corn! Today the weather was hot, damn hot. And tomorrow, it's gonna be damn hot too! Maybe some rain also. I hope not, but we will be lucky if we escape the rain tomorrow.

This is the boring part of the trip, but it has to get done. Just a few more days and we will be home. We plan to put another 450 miles or so on the road tomorrow and bed down, just West of Joliet, Il.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

July 20, 21 - gw

The past two days have been a bit different, but very relaxing and enjoyable. The weather has been very iffy with regards to rain.

July 20 - Temps in the 70's and low 90's
Mike and Lea went the twisty and high altitude route from Durango up through Silverton, Montrose, and Black Canyon. The altitudes were too high for me to ride that route, so Rusty, Pam, Janet and I took the easier, more mundane route through Pagosa Springs and Del Norte. Got to ride through a couple mountain passes, but not near as high as Mike and Lea. Luckily we did not have to ride through rain, but Mike and Lea were not that lucky. We met in Salida for the evening meal and hotel. Around 200 miles for the day

July 21 - Temps the same
We again split up. Mike and Lea were headed for Pikes Peak and a longer ride for the day, while the rest of us headed up Route 285 into Denver. We stopped in the BMW shop to buy a few small items. You can't pass up a BMW shop I always say. And Janet agrees. We are now in the Fairfield Inn at 3 p.m. drinking our lunch. You see, we carry wine and Crown for these down times when you need to mello out! Around 150 miles today.

Tomorrow the gals get on the shuttle for their flight back to Detroit and the guys mount up to start the long ride across the plains to get us home.

Monday, July 19, 2010

July 18, 19 - gw




Here are a couple pictures of Shoshone Falls and Arches Park

July 16, 17, 18, 19 - gw

Haven't provided comments for 4 days now, sorry - though others have been giving some updates. Anyway, here goes.

July 16 - No miles, temps in the 70's and 80's, few clouds. We spent the day at the BMW Rally. Got to see all the farkles. Wanted to get the Ohlin shocks put on the bike, but chickened out. Wish I had done that now. The shocks on the bike (I think) are getting loose. Will have them checked when I get home at the BMW dealer. Only bought about $100 worth of stuff, so I would call that a good thing.



July 17, 18, 19 - Temps from high 70's to low 100's, skies clear. Highest temp we hit was 109! When someone calls it "dry heat" out hear and tells you it is not that hot. Tell them they are full of crap! When its hot, it's hot. Not much to tell about the trip other than there is alot of wide open spaces between Redmond, OR and Durango, CO. We saw really nice twisties East of Redmond, then basically it was heads down on the Interstate system through Boise, Salt Lake City and Provo, UT. We then got into nice twisties for about 100 miles into Green River, UT. We toured Arches National Park in Eastern Utah this morning after leaving Green River about 7:30 a.m. I think it was in the 90's by the time we saw 10 a.m. Got into Durango about 1:00. Just goofing off for the rest of the day and saving myself for dinner. It is in the 90's here in Durango. We will spend the next couple days riding in Colorado and ending up near the Denver airport so Janet, Pam, and Lea can board their planes bound for Detroit on Thursday morning.

Sunday, July 18, 2010

18 Jul 2010 Twin Falls Id to Green River, Utah



Today we started off with a visit to Shoshone Falls in Twin Falls, Idaho and then rode to Green River, Utah. It was incredibly hot during the last half of the day (109) leaving the canyons and heading into plateau and plains on the way to the Moab desert tomorrow.
Expect to pass 10,000 miles of riding tomorrow.

Saturday, July 17, 2010

17 Jul 10 RW




Attended the BMW rally yesterday. Pearse headed back to Michigan after spending yesterday at the rally. Lea spent the last couple of days resting trying to get her back in shape for the remainder of the ride.
Today we had a long ride from Redmond, Oregon to Twin Falls, Idaho. While the first half of the ride was interesting, the last half was extremely hot (103-104). We put our cool vests to good use today. The really work !!!
We have over 9500 miles logged.
Picture 1 Twin Falls Gorge
Picture 2: For those of you who know Janet, that is not a glass of Chardonnay. It was that hot at the rally.
Picture 3: Bachelor Mountain framed in rally entrance.

Temperatures from the 50's to 90's at the rally and over 100 on the road between Redmond and Twin Falls.




Thursday, July 15, 2010

Pics July 13, 15 - gw




July 13, 14, 15 - gw

Again, apologies for not updating - things were a bit hectic.

July 13 - Temps in the low 50's going into the low 80's in the p.m. Clear skies.
Today the group had to split up. Rusty and I rode a very short day, about 70 miles from Squamish into Vancouver BC and met Pam and Janet. Mike, Lea, and Pearse passed through Vancouver and headed for Seattle. While we were walking around Vancouver with a half day off, the other group were getting new tires put on their motorcycles in Seattle. The plan was to catch back up at the BMW rally in Redmond, Oregon.

July 14 - Temps out of Vancouver were low 60's going into the high 80's in Portland. Again, another split in the groups as follows: Mike and Lea rode across the Southern border of Washington and then headed South to Redmond. Pearse rode by his lonesome out of Portland, Southeast into Redmond. Janet and I rode to Portland and spent the nite there. While Rusty and Pam rode on into Eugene where they spent the nite with Pam's daughter who is due to have her first child any day now. Janet and I were ablel to eat at Richard Santucci's sister's restaurant in Portland. What good barbeque! If you are ever there, eat at Russel Street Barbeque located at 323 Russel Street NE in Portland.

July 15 - Temps in the high 60's going to mid 90's - very hot and clear sky day.
Janet and rode into Redmond today - about 175 miles. We followed the Columbia Gorge for 50 miles or so to The Dalles, then cut south to Redmond. Nice water falls and lots of twisty roads heading south on Route 97. Don't miss this road if you are out here. I went to the rally where I met up with Pearse and Mike. Rusty and Pam arrived about 6:30 and we all had a wonderful dinner next to the hotel here. Tomorrow we spend the majority of our time at the Rally.

Monday, July 12, 2010

12 July 10 Prince George to Squamish BC RW





Today's ride was over 400 miles with the last 100 miles on the Sea to Sky canyon road. It was hard to see the scenery and watch the road as it got narrower the further you drove. For anyone traveling to this part of the world, this road should not be missed. It has winding roads, views of snow capped mountains, a fast moving river, waterfall, canyons and challenging road switchbacks.
Temperatures ranged from 47 to 65. Overall it was cold and rainy a good part of the day.
We stopped for lunch in Williams Lake. It was an A&W with real glass mugs. Tonight we ate at Pepe's and Gringo's. You wouldn't guess it but they had excellent Italian food.
Total miles to date are 8277 and counting.



Sunday, July 11, 2010

July 10 - gw

Temps: 57 to 82 degrees. Very cloudy with low ceiling leaving Stewart but after 40 miles outside of Stewart the low ceiling of clouds went away and partly cloudy skies for the rest of the day.

Last nite we went across the border and into Hyder; tried to see bears catching the salmon. But.... no salmon, so no bears. The salmon are running late so we were out of luck on that idea.

It is noteworthy to say that there is no border control going from Canada into the U.S. at Hyder. There is border control, requiring a passport, for the return into Stewart, Canada. I guess that says something about Hyder! Very small town, with no roads leading outside of Hyder to Northern Alaska, so I guess it is safe.

We departed Stewart at 7:45 a.m. rode the same 40 miles back to Route 37, seeing the glaciers and water falls again on the way out. The rest of the 430 miles we rode today was high rolling hills / small mountains for the morning and turning into smaller rolling hills all the way into Prince George. Nice ride day but noting of interest in terms of sights to see.

Rocketman and the Zen Master got into the ride as the day went on. The more miles we clicked off, the more MPH they wanted to ride! We made good time arriving here around 4:30 p.m. and checked into the Best Western in downtown.

Tomorrow we head for Pemberton - near Whistler

Saturday, July 10, 2010

10 Jul 10 Stewart RW







Today's ride was beautiful once we got past the road construction. The lower Cassier is really breath taking and hard to do justice because of the limited pull offs for taking pictures.



Over 7400 miles since we left Michigan.
Picture 1 Downtown Hyder Alaska (Southern most tip). Very small town but known for the Salmon run and bear feeding. It's supposed to start any day but we didn't see any bear other then what we ran across driving the Cassier.
Picture 2 View of the Cassier shrowed in clouds.
Picture 3 Bear Glacier (fantistic blue color but the camera didn't do it justice.



July 9/10 - gw

Not able to get on the web last nite.

July 9 - Temps in the 60's getting into mid 80's. Partly cloudy. Got pretty hot in the p.m.

Great day though a short day - only 160 miles. Got to see all the signs posted in Watson Lake. Pretty interesting to see all the folks who have made the trek and put memorabilia up. Hit some road construction along the way. Saw a number of "mirror lakes" that were fantastic. I think Rusty already posted pics.

July 10 - Temps in the low 50's all day until late p.m. then into the 60's. Looked like rain all day; heavy overcast. We were on wet roads part of the time but it did not rain on us. Even with the overcast and heavy cloud cover, the scenery was out of this world. Rode along the mountains all day, saw glaciers, waterfalls, lakes, etc. Mountains were ringed with clouds all the way. We arrived in Stewart after 275 miles today by about 1:30 p.m. Later this afternoon we will head across the boarder into Hyder (furthest Southern town in Alaska) for dinner and hopefully to see the bears trying to get at the salmon. Tomorrow we head for Prince George. Just a couple more days into Vancouver.

Rusty was quite taken with the glacier we saw. Hopefully he can post a pic or two. All going well.

Friday, July 9, 2010

Dease Lake 09 Jul 10 RW





Just a quick set of pictures as we left Watson lake and went down the Cassiers highway to Dease lake. It was an easy day with little traffic and road conditions were better than anticipated with only minor road construction hold ups.

Picture 1 Gary at Jade city rock mining co. on Cassiers highway
Picture 2 Lea and Mike waiting for construction to clear so we could proceed down the Cassier.
Picture 3 Reflection of mountains, trees and clouds in crystal clear water on Cassier.
Picture 4 Sign forest at Watson lake with more than 60,000 signs from around the world. (Gary, Lea, Mike, Pearse).
Only covered about 200 miles today. Slow and easy riding day.

Thursday, July 8, 2010

08 Jul 10 Watson Lake





Problems with internet has precluded pictures for the last few days.
Gary updated blog, I am attaching a few pictures.
Total miles as of today are 7002.
Picture 1 Haines Junction view from room.
Picture 2 Glen Highway
Picture 3 Tok cutoff
Picture 4 Pam enjoying Talkeena


July 8 - gw

Well, another pretty good riding day. Covered about 330 miles today, with a total trip-to-date of just over 7000 miles.

Temps: 52 - 87 degrees. Pretty wide range for the day. Sunny with clouds all day.

We determined that I lost some wheel weights yesterday, but were unable to find a store that carried stick-on weights. Finally found a Honda shop in Whitehorse and was able to get the weights from them. Took about 2 minutes to put them on the wheel. Now the bike rides alot smoother.

Today was mostly covering ground that we already travelled going North, so no news about new sights, other than we saw a brown bear today on the way. We headed mostly East today and are staying the nite at Watson Lake. We will head back west for approx 15 milwa to connect with the road heading South towards the Cassiar Highway. Looks like we are in for some construction again as we head South.

Pearse was losing his Zen today because his bike was dirty. When we got into the hotel he had to clean his motorcycle. I think he can relax now! Mike played Rocketman this afternoon and set a good pace. Rusty was stuck on Mike's back fender all the way - I think challenging Mike to pick up the pace a bit.

July 6/7 - gw

Sorry I didn't get input to the blog the past two evenings. Couldn't get to the internet at the motels we were at. It was traumatic, but we persevered and made it through.

July 6 - Temps in the high 50's and up to about 70 degrees - Skies cloudy.
The ride took us South to Wasilla then West to Tok. Alot of nice mountain scenery heading to Wasilla, but the ride West to Tok had alot of tall mountain roads along the river but later turned to rolling hills as we got closer to Tok. We got to see a moose along the road. Full grown male, big antlers and a nice looking coat. He was right beside the highway when we came upon him. Pearse's exhaust (I think) scared him a bit and he began running and cut into the brush. Too quick to get a picture.

July 7 - Temps in the high 50's heading into the high 70's. Clear all day.

I had a shimmy in my bike as we headed out of Tok. In about 10 miles we encountered construction for many miles. Then later we hit 50 miles of very rough blacktop roads. Looked like wash-outs in the road that were patched and were very rough. Also, alot of roller coaster type road surface, causing Mike/Lea to have to slow down to navigate the roads. Somewhere during the day we noticed that one of my wheel weights came off the front wheel. I stopped at a couple tire repair places, but no one had stick-on weights. Hopefully I can get one tomorrow in Whitehorse as they have motorcycle dealers there. Lets hope. Got into the hotel and found it to be clean and nice. Haines Junction is the only town for nearly 100 miles in any direction. It is basically a cross roads, with a police station, gas station, motel, rv park, general store and 3 restaurants. We go to the first restaurant and believe it or not we couldn't eat there because we did not have a reservation and they were full. Had to take second best and eat at the motel restaurant. I don't think we are starving though.

Tomorrow on to Whitehorse, then Watson Lake.

Monday, July 5, 2010

July 4/5 - gw

We took July 4th off so did not post yesterday - so here is a quick run down of the 4th and 5th.

July 4 - Temps in the 60's and 70's. Cloudy to sunny all day.
We spent the day scrubbing on our bikes. The calcium chloride took alot of elbow grease just to make them reasonable looking. Still much more to clean when we get home. Also a good day to complete a bit of laundry. Went to an outdoor restaurant for all you can eat salmon, cod, halibut and prime rib. All were hungry and ate well. The salmon and halibut were very tasty!

July 5 - Temps in 50's and 60's. Cloudy all day, raining when we left, but it quit soon after we were on the road. Very windy and a cold ride.

We departed Rivers Edge at 10 a.m. in pouring rain. Not the best weather for the guys, but our wives just loved it. They especially appreciated the wet hair inside the helmet. Its not often they get that loving treatment at home. We rode about 300 miles today through wind, rain and high winds. Beautiful scenery going past Denali Park, but too cold to stop for pics.

Arriving in Talkeetna, we found out the water and sewage was not working at the hotel we booked. We had to scramble but found rooms where Pearse was booked. At least we have a room and bed. What else could I want!

Tomorrow, we split up. Pam and Janet take the train to Anchorage and the rest of us start heading South to meet up with them in Vancouver.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Prudhoe Bay 02-03 Jul 10 RW






Well.....I believe Gary summed things up well in his Blog input. I can sum up my comments in 4 words.....Fantastic Experience, Never Again. Yep, that does it.
The scenery was unbelievable and the experience of making it to the Arctic Ocean is something to remember for a life time.
Picture 1-RW Bike at Prudhoe Bay
Picture 2- Arctic Caribou accommodations
Picture 3- Driving into the storms Atigun Pass
Picture 4- Bikes at Coldfoot (half way point on Dalton Highway heading to Prudhoe Bay)
Picture 5- Arctic Circle


July 2/3 - gw

So, we made it to Prudhoe Bay and back over the last two days! After making this trip, I continue to ask "Who's idea was this anyway?" Problem is I think it was mine so I am to blame.



So here's the deal...

July 2 -Temps in the 50' s thru 70's. Lotsa rain in the a.m. turning to clear mid day.

July 3 - Temps in the 30's going up to the 70's as we get closer to Fairbanks in the p.m.



If there was a list of all the obstacles one can encounter on this trip, we hit them all, with exception of snow. We departed Fairbanks at 7 a.m. on July 2 and early-on ran into a steady rain. This was ok for the initial 80 miles but then the roads changed from blacktop to dirt. Good part is no dust, bad part is the roads is very slick due to calcium chloride they use to keep the dust down. (The tire change to knobbies was key in my book). We ran in rain all the way North (330 miles) to Coldfoot Camp. Rain ended, good roads (this is relative, still very rough in places where road construction was in play) to Atigun Pass. About 10 miles out of Atigun Pass we hit washboard roads, then losta loose gravel, then a 15 mile section where they dumped new rocks on top of the road for repairs (golfball to softball size!). Arrived at 8 p.m.

July 3 - departed 6 a.m.at 38 degrees, got lost in Prudhoe Bay, finally left at 6:30; saw a herd of Caribou about 10 miles out. Ran into fog and had to ride for approx 3.5 hours with about 50 ft of visibility to Atigun Pass. From there on in, it was dry, but had to stop for road construction. Avoid stopping if you can - lotsa big mosquitos attack you! The rest of the way in, very dusty conditions. Also, I had a flat tire due to something cuting my new tire, putting a large gash in it. Had to stop for repairs twice. I guess the first one didn't take. Anyway, finally made it back at 8 p.m. Then took the bikes to the shope for washing and tire changes to new Tourances for the trip home. Got back into the our cabin at midnite - looonnnnnggggg day.

If ever you are asked to do this Prudhoe Bay trip; think long and hard. Think about taking two days up and two days back rather than 1 day each way like we did. It is a very difficult ride given the road conditions and weather. If wet, very slick. If dry, very dusty. Either way plan for a 10 - 13 hour trip each way! Am glad I completed it, but not for the faint of heart

Tomorrow is a much needed down day.

I Can See Russia From My Porch...

We we are hold up in Fairbanks, the rest-up, bike maintenance outpost. Gary, Mike, and Rusty followed through on their bucket list commitment to ride to Prudhoe and back in two days. They left early Friday morning and rode straight through every type of weather that is possible during this time of year. They returned yesterday (Saturday) afternoon and spent the early evening getting tires switched out and oils changed by Dan and Shawn (the 24-7 super maintenance and chat service). By all accounts they do great work at all hours of day and night at reasonable rates.

I ran into a couple guys at the Harley shop that attempted the Prudhoe run the day before and reported horrendous conditions, very wet and dangerous. I was greatly relieved to hear from Mike that they had all returned without serious incident.

Our accommodations here in Fairbanks are very nifty. Nice little private cottages at the banks of the Chena river. As for me, I have enjoyed the time off of the road and have used the time to bare down on my training module (6 Sigma stuff) development responsibility. I did some minor maintenance my self but opted for the Harley/BMW franchise across the street.

The ladies arrived Saturday in time for dinner on the river and I enjoyed their company. They spent all day the following day on a bus tour of the Artic regions.

I am sure today will be a rest-up for the 3 adventure tourers (and spouses) and we will depart as planned for Denali on Monday morning.

Look for Gary's upcoming blog (I am sure) detailing the great Prudhoe adventure.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

July 1 - gw

Temps today - 50-s and 60's until late afternoon then about 70 degrees. Very cloudy during the a.m., thought we were going to get rain but luckily no rain again! Rumor has it we are getting rain day after tomorrow - we'll see.

First, a couple thoughts I forgot to put down yesterday:
1. Dawson City - the roads end at Dawson City and, get this, all the streets are dirt. The sidewalks are all "board walks" about 8 inches up from the street level. I would have never believed it if I hadn't seen it. Another tid bit is the entire surrounding areas is riddled with large piles of rock that were the remains of the gold mining/sluicing machines used to mine gold there. They have done a wonderful job of maintaining the old look of the town - as you can see from the photo's.
2. Travel from Dawson City to the Boarder and crossing the boarder was interesting. Picture the a 3 hour drive from the Yukon river to the boarder. All of a sudden you are up in the clouds and you see a border crossing sign. Then you pull up and have to wait for the border guards to get ready for us. Then you ride in mud / gravel / blacktop for another 3 hours to get to the next town. (Chicken is really a gas stop with a lunch counter; not really a town per se). I mean, you just don't get up a say I'll run to the store for a dozen eggs or a gallon of milk. This is out in the boonies. How do you get people to take that job?

OK, now for today. We left Tok this a.m. in hopes of getting to to Fairbanks by 10 a.m. We wanted to get knobbies put on our bikes for the trip to Prudhoe Bay since it is to a large degree gravel for 500 miles. Well, we got here on time, only to sit in line at the bike shop and wait our turn. We finally got out tires changed bay about 3:30 p.m. We are trying to get a room in Coldfoot so we could ride 250 miles there today and finish the trip North tomorrow, but that isn't goint to work. We are taking a break for the rest of the afternoon and will make the 500 mile run up to Prudhdoe tomorrow and return to Fairbanks the following day. For now, we are sitting outside our cabin looking at the river and getting a bit "relaxed". In fact, Pearse is so relaxed you might call him "taken to his Scotch" this evening - though I don't think he is Scottish.